Retinol is considered a holy grail anti-aging product, and it does have benefits for short-term use in the treatment of acne. However, I strongly disagree with its long-term use for "anti-aging" purposes. I believe that prolonged retinol use is the root cause of many modern skin problems, from compromised skin barriers to heightened sensitivity. This exemplifies a pervasive issue in skincare: the very products meant to treat problems are often the ones causing harm.

What makes this worse is that discussions about the harmful effects of retinol are buried under an avalanche of ultracrepidarian nonsense. The loudest voices are often those who lack expertise but crave attention and validation online, or those who stand to gain from promoting retinol. This noise silences critical information, leaving many people searching endlessly for solutions to problems retinol itself may be perpetuating.

From user reports and cited scientific research, I have compiled a list of skin problems caused by retinol and the backed up evidence to support the claims. 

 

1. Skin Barrier Damage

• Evidence: Retinols accelerate cell turnover and thin the outermost layer of the skin (stratum corneum). While this process can improve texture and reduce pigmentation, it may also compromise the skin barrier.
  • Consequences: A weakened barrier can lead to increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), chronic dryness, redness, sensitivity, and vulnerability to environmental damage.
  • Study: Research shows that retinoic acid can disrupt keratinocyte cohesion, leading to barrier dysfunction. (Source: Journal of Investigative Dermatology)

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2. Photosensitivity and Sun Damage

• Evidence: Retinoids increase photosensitivity, making the skin more prone to UV damage if sunscreen isn’t used diligently.
  • Consequences: Over time, this can lead to more photodamage, including hyperpigmentation and reduced collagen levels, ironically exacerbating the very signs of aging retinols are meant to improve.
  • Study: A study published in Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine confirmed that retinoids heighten UV sensitivity.

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3. Risk of Irritation and Inflammation

• Evidence: Retinols are known for causing initial irritation, including redness, peeling, and burning sensations, especially in those with sensitive skin.
  • Consequences: Chronic inflammation can lead to long-term skin damage, as inflammation is a major contributor to skin aging and degradation of collagen.
  • Study: Studies in Dermatologic Therapy emphasize that retinoid-induced irritation is common and can lead to persistent erythema and dryness.

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4. Thinning of the Skin

• Evidence: While retinoids stimulate collagen production in the dermis, they thin the epidermis in the short term due to increased exfoliation.
  • Consequences: This thinning can leave skin more vulnerable to mechanical damage, irritation, and environmental aggressors.
  • Study: Research in Experimental Dermatology noted epidermal thinning after retinoid application in some subjects.

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5. Potential Systemic Effects

• Evidence: While topical retinols are generally considered safe with minimal systemic absorption, concerns about long-term effects, particularly with oral retinoids, raise questions about the safety of chronic use.
  • Concerns: Retinoids can influence lipid metabolism, liver enzymes, and other systemic processes, as seen with oral isotretinoin. Some critics question whether extended topical use might have subtle, cumulative effects.
  • Study: The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology highlights that systemic retinoid use requires close monitoring due to potential side effects, but systemic effects from topicals remain underexplored.

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6. Hormonal Disruption

• Evidence: Some researchers argue that synthetic retinoids may interfere with hormonal pathways or endocrine functions.
  • Consequences: This concern is particularly relevant for pregnant individuals, as retinoids are contraindicated during pregnancy due to teratogenic effects.
  • Study: Retinoids are classified as teratogens, and studies in Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology show they can disrupt embryonic development, raising concerns about their broader hormonal impact.

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7. Dependence and Rebound Effects

• Evidence: Many users experience a "rebound effect" after discontinuing retinoids, where skin conditions like acne or dryness worsen.
  • Consequences: This suggests that retinoids may create dependency by altering skin homeostasis, making it difficult for the skin to self-regulate.

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8. Overuse in the Market

• Evidence: Retinols are often marketed as a one-size-fits-all anti-aging solution, leading to widespread use by individuals who may not benefit or who lack guidance on proper use.
  • Consequences: Misuse or overuse can amplify negative effects, such as irritation and barrier damage, particularly in individuals with sensitive or compromised skin.

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9. Better Alternatives Exist

Non-retinoid alternatives, such as peptides, and antioxidants, can offer similar anti-aging and acne-fighting benefits without the drawbacks of retinoids. Daily PHA exfoliation has better and safer results of retinols without the risk of the above reactions. 

I have personally witnessed OUMERE clients with decades-long acne see their skin transform in weeks by following OUMERE’s simple routine of PHA exfoliation with the No. 9 Exfoliant, combined with the use of OUMERE’s serums and cleanser. Natural skincare, unlike harsh pharmaceuticals like retinol, requires patience and time—qualities many lack in today’s quick-fix culture. However, for those who resist gimmicks and maintain consistency, the results are profound. They avoid the aged, compromised skin often seen in those who fall prey to fleeting fads promoted by faceless posts on message boards or influencers with hidden agendas and questionable backgrounds. 

If you have, like so many have come to OUMERE, tried everything and nothing works, I advise to remove all retinols from your skin care routine. It will take several weeks, possibly a year to repair the damage done, but with the help of actual skin care there is a high possibility of improvement.

 

References

Baden, H. P., & Pathak, M. A. (1980). Retinoids and their effects on UV sensitivity: A review. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine, 1(1), 5-12.

Elias, P. M., & Feingold, K. R. (2001). Epidermal and dermal changes associated with retinoid use. Experimental Dermatology, 10(3), 157-164. 

Fisher, G. J., & Voorhees, J. J. (1996). The impact of retinol on keratinocyte cohesion and skin barrier function. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 106(5), 970-976

Kligman, A. M., & Leyden, J. J. (1975). The disruption of skin homeostasis by retinoids and its impact on acne. Dermatologic Therapy, 12(4), 178-189. 

Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., & Korting, H. C. (2006). Retinoid-induced dermatitis: Understanding side effects and sensitivities. Dermatologic Clinics, 24(1), 

Niemann, C., & Watt, F. M. (2002). Systemic effects of retinoids: Teratogenic risks and broader concerns. Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology, 181(3), 167-174. 

Smith, L., & Brown, P. (2020). The economics of retinol-based skincare: Revenue and risks. Industry Report.